Typical RV Plumbing Repair Works and How to Prevent Leakages
The very first tip is generally a soft spot in the flooring near the galley, or a suspicious drip from a cabinet you never open. Pipes issues in an RV hardly ever stay little. Vibration, temperature level swings, and tight areas conspire against tubes and fittings, and a drip that goes unattended can soak insulation, swell subfloor, and stain a ceiling panel before you observe. The bright side: most RV pipes repairs are straightforward if you understand how the systems are set out and why they stop working. A little disciplined care and routine RV upkeep avoids most leakages from ever starting.
I'll walk through the most typical perpetrators, what repair work look like in the field, and the avoidance routines that keep your pipes boring. Along the way I'll indicate when it's smarter to call a mobile RV service technician or book time at a local RV repair work depot, because some jobs really are quicker with a 2nd set of hands and the best tools.
How RV plumbing is various from a house
RV contractors chase after weight, expense, and serviceability. That suggests versatile PEX tubing instead of copper, plastic fittings rather of brass, and quick-connects you will not discover under a domestic sink. It also suggests continuous best RV repair Lynden motion. Every mile the coach bounces, joints and unions see micro‑shifts. Add in freeze-thaw cycles, city water pressures that differ extremely, and, on some systems, a hot water heater strapped to a thin plywood wall, and it's a wonder leaks aren't constant.
There are 3 core subsystems: fresh water, drains pipes, and the hot water heater. Fresh water gets here from the city water inlet or the onboard pump pulling from the fresh tank. Drains pipes path grey water from sinks and showers to the grey tank, and black water from the toilet to the black tank. Each system has its own failure modes. With experience, you learn to identify by sound and smell. A pump that cycles every 30 minutes without a faucet open indicate a pressure-side leak. A moldy smell without any visible water frequently traces to a trap or vent issue, not a supply line. These tells save hours of guesswork.
Common leakages at the city water inlet
That shiny inlet on the side of the coach conceals a backflow preventer, a cheap O‑ring, and in some cases a pressure regulator developed into the real estate. It's a high-stress point since camping area pressures can be 40 psi, 60 psi, or, in a few older parks, high enough to blow fittings. I have actually changed cracked inlets that saw 90 psi for a weekend. The owner had no external regulator and no idea the risk.
Repairs are basic. Kill water, relieve pressure by opening a faucet, eliminate four screws, and pull the inlet and short PEX stub. The leak is normally at the plastic threads or a perished O‑ring. If the threads are cross‑threaded or split, replace the entire inlet body and use new tape or thread sealant ranked for potable water. On push‑to‑connect design fittings, examine the grab ring and O‑ring, and cut down to fresh PEX if the end is gouged. Recrimping with appropriate copper or stainless cinch rings beats attempting to salvage a chewed end.
Prevention starts with a quality external regulator. The little in-line barrel regulators droop flow. A better choice is an adjustable brass regulator with a gauge set to 45 to 50 psi. I also include a brief tube at the inlet to reduce tension, particularly on slides where the inlet moves. Some RVers like a quick disconnect to avoid wrenching, which decreases stress on the inlet threads.
Pump cycles and phantom leaks
The 12‑volt diaphragm pump is a workhorse, however it can only hold pressure if the system is tight. If you hear a brief pump run occasionally without any components open, you either have a little pressure-side leakage or a stopping working pump check valve. I have actually chased after "phantom" leakages that turned out to be a loose swivel on the toilet, a seeping outside shower control, or the pump's own valve not sealing.
Start by closing the pump output valve if one exists, or clamp the output tube carefully with a cushioned clamp. If the pump stops biking, your leakage is downstream. If it still cycles, suspect the pump. Pump rebuild packages are affordable. For many designs, swapping the head takes 15 minutes and brings back the check valve seal. While you exist, clean the inlet strainer. A clogged strainer makes a pump seem like it is dying.
To discover downstream leakages, dry all visible fittings and cover a square of bathroom tissue around each suspect joint. Paper reveals weeping connections much faster than your fingertips. Do not forget the outdoor shower box. Those valves sit with pressure always on, and a failed cartridge will soak the compartment. If you can not access a run behind cabinetry, a mobile RV professional with a borescope conserves time and holes.
PEX fittings: where movement satisfies seals
PEX controls RV supply lines because it is light, affordable, and forgiving of freeze expansion within factor. The weak spot is the fitting. RV factories utilize a mix of crimp, secure, and push‑fit ports. Each style can be trustworthy when set up effectively. Problems originate from bad cuts, misaligned crimp rings, or fittings unsupported in a vibrating wall.
When I fix a dripping PEX joint, I cut the line back to clean, round tubing. I choose stainless cinch rings with the cog tool in tight areas, or copper crimp rings when I have room. Push‑fit connectors are excellent for quick field repairs, and I keep a few in the set for emergencies, however I do not leave them in high‑vibration or concealed areas long term. Over years, push‑fits can lose their seal if the tube isn't completely round or if grit surpasses the O‑ring throughout installation.
Support matters as much as the joint. A line zip‑tied to a thin panel is not support. Include padded clamps every 18 to 24 inches, and at each turn, to prevent chafe. Anywhere a PEX line contacts metal, add a grommet or split hose as a sleeve.
Water heater drips and relief valve weeping
Two water heater issues show up regularly. Initially, the pressure-temperature relief valve weeping after the heating system heats up. Second, leaks at the bypass or blending valves behind the heating system during winterization season.
Relief valves weep due to the fact that water broadens as it heats and there is no place for that growth to go. On a home, a thermal expansion tank handles it. On lots of RVs, the pump's check valve holds expansion in the hot side up until the relief valve lifts. Owners presume the valve is bad and change it, only to have the new one weep too. You can lower problem weeping by adding a little potable-rated growth tank on the hot side with a brief PEX loop. Set system pressure to 45 psi and the concern normally vanishes. If you don't want to add a tank, opening a hot faucet briefly after the heating system lights gives expansion some room, but that is a habit few keep.
Leaks at the bypass are often simple. The plastic quarter-turn valves split under torque or during freeze. If your yearly RV upkeep includes blowing lines and pushing RV antifreeze, be mild with those handles. Replacement valves in brass last longer, and the expense distinction is determined in 10s of dollars, not hundreds. While you have the panel open, inspect the mixing valve if you have an "AquaHot" or on-demand heating unit. Water with a lot of minerals gums these up, causing irregular temperature and leaks at the cartridge.
Toilet base leakages and the mystery of soft floors
A toilet leakage is more than an annoyance. Water at the base can rot the subfloor rapidly, specifically in light-weight coaches where the bathroom flooring is a sandwich of foam and thin plywood. There are 2 typical leak points: the supply of water, usually a plastic nut and swivel, and the seal in between the toilet and the floor flange.
For the supply, never crank on a plastic nut with a wrench. Hand-tight with a quarter-turn past snug is plenty. If it still weeps, examine the cone washer, change it, and inspect that the mating nipple is not cracked. If the leak continues even with new parts, swap to a braided stainless supply with the ideal thread adapters, and support it to prevent tension on the toilet inlet.
For the base, if you smell sewage system gas or see water after a flush, the floor seal might be flattened or the flange distorted. Eliminate the toilet, scrape away the old seal, and inspect the flange. If screws are loose in soft wood, inject epoxy or use threaded inserts created for thin subfloor product. Change the seal with the gasket recommended by the toilet manufacturer. Some utilize foam, others wax-free rubber. A thin bead of plumber's putty around the base does not replace a proper seal, and silicone traps wetness if a leakage establishes. Reinstall, test, then caulk only the front and sides so a future leakage exposes itself at the back.
Sinks, showers, and the peaceful drip in the cabinet
Galley and lavatory faucets in numerous Recreational vehicles are property style on top, with RV-grade plastic beneath. The flex supply lines use cone washers that can loosen up in time. I prefer swapping crucial components to metal-bodied systems with stainless braided lines during interior RV repair work. While you're there, include shutoff valves under sinks if your rig lacks them. mobile RV repair near me A pair of compact quarter-turn valves makes future repairs painless.
Showers introduce motion and heat. The connections behind the wall are normally a basic mixing valve with 2 threaded stems. Over-tighten the escutcheon or pull on a handheld tube, and you worry those stems. On a shower with an outside gain access to panel, leakage checks are easy. Without gain access to, expect staining on the paneling below or an unusual dampness in the surrounding cabinet. In a pinch, eliminate the blending valve trim and use a small mirror and flashlight to browse the hole while an assistant runs the water.
Shower pans often split at the perimeter where bad assistance lets them flex. If you capture it early, you can inject expanding structural foam under the pan to support it, then use a pan repair kit. Later repair work include removal, which is a bigger job. Regard any squeak or "crunch" underfoot as a warning to investigate, not background noise.
Drains, traps, and venting that burps
Drain leaks are less dramatic, but they reproduce odors and mold. RV drains pipes use thin-wall ABS or PVC with hand-tight nuts and soft washers. Vibration loosens these. A quarter-turn snugging by hand every season removes numerous future surprises. Change any trap arm that shows a flat-spot on the washer; when deformed, it will never ever seal completely again.
Venting causes more confusion. Rather than correct vent stacks to the roofing system at every fixture, many contractors use air admittance valves under sinks. These one-way valves let air in so the trap doesn't siphon. They also stick and let smells out. If you smell sewer near a cabinet and there's no visible leak, swap that valve. They cost little and thread on by hand. On roof vents, examine the cap and the sealant skirt. Cracked sealant lets rain in, Lynden RV repair options which migrates down the vent and appears where you least anticipate it.
Grey tank smells after highway driving typically trace to a dry trap. Water sloshes out on rough roads, then the odor slips back through the drain. Before travel, include a half cup of water and a splash of treatment to each trap, consisting of the shower. Some owners use trap guards that limit slosh. I've had great outcomes on rigs that see a great deal of mountain miles.
Freeze damage: prevention beats fix every time
Nothing ruins a spring journey like finding a burst line behind the wardrobe. Water broadens about 9 percent when it freezes. PEX can survive some expansion, but fittings, valves, and plastic faucet bodies can not. Winterization is not optional anywhere temperatures dip listed below freezing.
There are two accepted methods: blow out lines with compressed air or push RV antifreeze through all fixtures. Air-only winterization is quick and tidy, however it requires strategy. Control pressure to 30 to 40 psi, open one fixture at a time, and do not forget the outdoors shower, toilet sprayer, and any washing maker taps. Air can leave pockets of water in low areas that freeze. The antifreeze approach is slower and pink, but it safeguards every low spot and valve. Use a pump winterizing set or a short pipe at the pump inlet to draw from the container. Bypass the hot water heater so you don't fill it with antifreeze. Then run each component until pink programs, including drains so the traps are protected.
On rigs that travel in shoulder seasons, I add heat tape to vulnerable runs in the underbelly and insulate valves. A little 12‑volt heating pad on the pump helps too. These are not replacements for correct winterization, but they purchase you security on a cold overnight.
The role of pressure, and why determines matter
Water pressure in a sticks-and-bricks home frequently sits around 50 psi. Camping sites vary. I've measured 30 psi at one spigot and 95 at the next loop. High pressure finds the weakest link. If you keep in mind one number from this post, make quick RV maintenance Lynden it 45 to 50 psi. This variety secures fittings while keeping showers tolerable.
An adjustable regulator with an integrated gauge is worth the extra cost. Inline thumb-wheel regulators without evaluates tend to underdeliver and lull you into an incorrect complacency. Mount the regulator at the spigot to safeguard your best RV maintenance Lynden hose pipe too. If you connect a filter, place it after the regulator so the real estate does not see unregulated spikes. Watch on the gauge when neighbors arrive, since pressure can change as park need changes.
When to call a pro
Plenty of repair work are DIY friendly. Switching a PEX elbow or tightening up a trap is weekend work. The time to call a mobile RV service technician is when access is tight enough that disassembly runs the risk of civilian casualties, or when water shows up far from the most likely source. For instance, a ceiling stain 2 bays forward of the shower recommends a roof penetration or a vent stack problem that requires cautious leakage tracing. Likewise, a recurring pump cycle you can not separate is often much faster to solve with a pressure test rig that few owners carry.
A mobile RV technician saves a trip to the RV repair shop, particularly when the rig is set up at a website or the concern is small however immediate. For larger tasks, such as replacing a cracked shower pan or restoring a hot water heater compartment with soft wood, a regional RV repair depot with a lift and store tools gets it done efficiently. If you're in the Pacific Northwest, OceanWest RV, Marine & & Equipment Upfitters is a fine example of a store that manages both interior RV repairs and exterior RV repair work under one roofing system, from resealing a roofing system vent to remounting a hot water heater with correct blocking.
Field-tested routines that avoid leaks
I keep a short set of routines that cut leakages to near absolutely no throughout consumer fleets and my own rigs. They do not need unique training, simply consistency.
- Use a quality adjustable pressure regulator with a gauge at every hookup, set to 45 to 50 psi. Add a brief leader pipe to minimize stress on the inlet. Before each journey, run the pump with the city water disconnected and listen. If it cycles after pressurizing, hunt the leakage before you roll. Every three months in season, hand-check every noticeable PEX connection and drain nut for snugness. Clean with a paper towel to catch weeping. Annually, change sink air admittance valves, switch any crusty cone washers, and rebed roofing vent seals that show cracking. During winterization, use RV antifreeze, bypass the water heater, and tag the bypass so you don't dry-fire the heating system in spring.
Diagnosing leakages without tearing the coach apart
Chasing water in an RV suggests believing like water. It follows gravity, wicks along wood grain, and shoots sideways when a fan pulls unfavorable pressure. A couple of techniques assist you pinpoint problems rapidly. Flour dust around a suspect fitting shows tracks when a drip passes. Food coloring in a sink trap will reveal if colored water appears in a cabinet listed below, which confirms a drain leakage instead of a supply leakage. Blue shop towels placed along a suspect run show dampness more plainly than white paper.
On concealed runs, infrared thermometers can hint at cold spots when chilled water is streaming, but an easy mechanic's stethoscope can be better. Hold it to a panel while the pump is on. A hiss frequently betrays a pressure leak behind the wall. If a leak is near electrical, eliminate 12‑volt circuits in the area and get rid of the fuse to prevent shorts. Water and 12‑volt do not mix any much better than water and 120‑volt.
Materials that last longer than their stock counterparts
Many economical upgrades survive vibration and stress much better than stock parts. A brass city water inlet with metal threads outlasts plastic. Changing plastic faucet bodies with metal reduces splitting. Swapping the ubiquitous white vinyl pipe to a premium drinking-water hose pipe prevents pinhole leaks and the plasticky taste that never ever leaves.
On PEX, stick with the very same tubing size and type the coach came with, generally 1/2 inch. Do not blend aluminum crimp rings and stainless cinch rings on the same joint, but you can use them in the exact same system. When you change a push‑fit emergency situation fix, save that fitting for your spares kit. It might conserve your weekend later.
For caulks and sealants at penetrations and the water heater access door, usage products compatible with the substrate. Self-leveling lap sealant for horizontal roofing seams, non-sag for vertical seams. At the hot water heater access door, check the butyl tape and change it if it is dry or missing; sealant alone will not keep water out forever.
Real-world examples and what they teach
Two tasks stick to me. The very first was a 5th wheel that had a persistent moldy odor and a soft cabinet floor near the kitchen. The owner had changed the kitchen area faucet twice. The offender ended up being the outside shower. The control valve body had a hairline fracture that just opened at pressures above 60 psi, which the park delivered at night when need fell. A good regulator and a brand-new valve resolved it, but the cabinet floor required reinforcement. Lesson: inspect the outdoors shower even if you never use it.
The second was a travel trailer with a shower pan that "crunched." The pan had actually bent against a staple head where the skirt fulfilled the subfloor, breaking in a hairline that just leaked when the owner stood in a certain spot. We pulled the pan, added a helpful bed of mortar, and re-installed with the staple eliminated. A bead of silicone kept back water cosmetically in the past, however the structural fix was the only real service. Lesson: movement triggers leakages. Support weak locations before the crack starts.
Building your maintenance rhythm
Regular RV maintenance is the most affordable insurance coverage versus leakages. Tie plumbing checks to the seasons and to turning points in your travel rhythm. Before the very first trip of spring, pressurize the system on pump and examine every compartment for 10 minutes. Mid-season, use an upkeep day to examine and re-seal roofing system penetrations, including plumbing vents. Before winter season storage, winterize with care and leave notes in blue painter's tape at the heating system bypass and the water heater switch so spring you does not make winter's mistake.
If your calendar is tight, consider annual RV maintenance at a store that knows your model line. Many concerns appear in patterns tied to a manufacturer's routing options. An experienced tech at an RV repair shop who has actually seen your design a dozen times will understand the blind spots and the fittings that loosen. Shops like OceanWest RV, Marine & & Devices Upfitters track these patterns and can suggest upgrades that avoid repeat visits.
When outside repair work matter for interior leaks
Water does not respect compartment lines. A bad seal at the city water inlet lets rain into the wall cavity. A cracked roofing vent cap channels water down the stack and into a vanity. That's why outside RV repair work belong to plumbing care. Rebed the city water inlet with butyl tape, seal its boundary with the right sealant, and check for any delamination in the surrounding wall. Change sun-brittled shower box doors. On the roofing, inspect the pipes vent caps, reseal as required, and change any that wobble. These little exterior jobs avoid interior RV repair work that take far longer.
Tools that make their space
Space is tight, but a modest package pays dividends. A compact PEX cinch tool and rings, a handful of elbows and couplings, drinkable thread sealant, replacement cone washers, a push‑fit union, a good flashlight, blue shop towels, and a mirror on a stick cover most problems. Add a regulator with a gauge, a brief leader tube, and an infrared thermometer if you like gizmos that really assist. With those, you can deal with 80 percent of on-the-road fixes without waiting for help.
The reward for doing it right
A dry coach smells tidy, holds its value, and lets you concentrate on travel rather than triage. The course there isn't complicated. Regard pressure, support lines, replace suspect plastic with bulks where it counts, and be systematic when you chase after drips. When jobs grow than your convenience level or access looks unsightly, a mobile RV service technician can action in rapidly, and an excellent regional RV repair work depot can take on the heavy lifts. If you deal with the daily discipline and lean on pros for the tough things, leaks stop being a continuous worry and become the rare surprise they ought to be.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters
Address (USA shop & yard):
7324 Guide Meridian Rd
Lynden, WA 98264
United States
Primary Phone (Service):
(360) 354-5538
(360) 302-4220 (Storage)
Toll-Free (US & Canada):
(866) 685-0654
Website (USA): https://oceanwestrvm.com
Hours of Operation (USA Shop – Lynden)
Monday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Tuesday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Wednesday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Thursday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Friday: 8:00 am – 4:30 pm
Saturday: 9:00 am – 1:00 pm
Sunday & Holidays: Flat-fee emergency calls only (no regular shop hours)
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Plus Code: WG57+8X, Lynden, Washington, USA
Latitude / Longitude: 48.9083543, -122.4850755
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OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is a mobile and in-shop RV, marine, and equipment upfitting business based at 7324 Guide Meridian Rd in Lynden, Washington 98264, USA.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters provides RV interior and exterior repairs, including bodywork, structural repairs, and slide-out and awning repairs for all makes and models of RVs.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters offers RV roof services such as spot sealing, full roof resealing, roof coatings, and rain gutter repairs to protect vehicles from the elements.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters specializes in RV appliance, electrical, LP gas, plumbing, heating, and cooling repairs to keep onboard systems functioning safely and efficiently.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters delivers boat and marine repair services alongside RV repair, supporting customers with both trailer and marine maintenance needs.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters operates secure RV and boat storage at its Lynden facility, providing all-season uncovered storage with monitored access.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters installs and services generators including Cummins Onan and Generac units for RVs, homes, and equipment applications.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters features solar panels, inverters, and off-grid power solutions for RVs and mobile equipment using brands such as Zamp Solar.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters offers awnings, retractable screens, and shading solutions using brands like Somfy, Insolroll, and Lutron for RVs and structures.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters handles warranty repairs and insurance claim work for RV and marine customers, coordinating documentation and service.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters serves Washington’s Whatcom and Snohomish counties, including Lynden, Bellingham, and the corridor down to Everett & Seattle, with a mix of shop and mobile services.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters serves the Lower Mainland of British Columbia with mobile RV repair and maintenance services for cross-border travelers and residents.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is reachable by phone at (360) 354-5538 for general RV and marine service inquiries.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters lists additional contact numbers for storage and toll-free calls, including (360) 302-4220 and (866) 685-0654, to support both US and Canadian customers.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters communicates via email at [email protected]
for sales and general inquiries related to RV and marine services.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters maintains an online presence through its website at https://oceanwestrvm.com
, which details services, storage options, and product lines.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is represented on social platforms such as Facebook and X (Twitter), where the brand shares updates on RV repair, storage availability, and seasonal service offers.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is categorized online as an RV repair shop, accessories store, boat repair provider, and RV/boat storage facility in Lynden, Washington.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters is geolocated at approximately 48.9083543 latitude and -122.4850755 longitude near Lynden, Washington, according to online mapping services.
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters can be viewed on Google Maps via a place link referencing “OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters, 7324 Guide Meridian Rd, Lynden, WA 98264,” which helps customers navigate to the shop and storage yard.
People Also Ask about OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters
What does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters do?
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters provides mobile and in-shop RV and marine repair, including interior and exterior work, roof repairs, appliance and electrical diagnostics, LP gas and plumbing service, and warranty and insurance-claim repairs, along with RV and boat storage at its Lynden location.
Where is OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters located?
The business is based at 7324 Guide Meridian Rd, Lynden, WA 98264, United States, with a shop and yard that handle RV repairs, marine services, and RV and boat storage for customers throughout the region.
Does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters offer mobile RV service?
Yes, OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters focuses strongly on mobile RV service, sending certified technicians to customer locations across Whatcom and Snohomish counties in Washington and into the Lower Mainland of British Columbia for onsite diagnostics, repairs, and maintenance.
Can OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters store my RV or boat?
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters offers secure, open-air RV and boat storage at the Lynden facility, with monitored access and all-season availability so customers can store their vehicles and vessels close to the US–Canada border.
What kinds of repairs can OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters handle?
The team can typically handle exterior body and collision repairs, interior rebuilds, roof sealing and coatings, electrical and plumbing issues, LP gas systems, heating and cooling systems, appliance repairs, generators, solar, and related upfitting work on a wide range of RVs and marine equipment.
Does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters work on generators and solar systems?
OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters sells, installs, and services generators from brands such as Cummins Onan and Generac, and also works with solar panels, inverters, and off-grid power systems to help RV owners and other customers maintain reliable power on the road or at home.
What areas does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters serve?
The company serves the BC Lower Mainland and Northern Washington, focusing on Lynden and surrounding Whatcom County communities and extending through Snohomish County down toward Everett, as well as travelers moving between the US and Canada.
What are the hours for OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters in Lynden?
Office and shop hours are usually Monday through Friday from 8:00 am to 4:30 pm and Saturday from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm, with Sunday and holidays reserved for flat-fee emergency calls rather than regular shop hours, so it is wise to call ahead before visiting.
Does OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters work with insurance and warranties?
Yes, OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters notes that it handles insurance claims and warranty repairs, helping customers coordinate documentation and approved repair work so vehicles and boats can get back on the road or water as efficiently as possible.
How can I contact OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters?
You can contact OceanWest RV, Marine & Equipment Upfitters by calling the service line at (360) 354-5538, using the storage contact line(s) listed on their site, or calling the toll-free number at (866) 685-0654. You can also connect via social channels such as Facebook at their Facebook page or X at @OceanWestRVM, and learn more on their website at https://oceanwestrvm.com.
Landmarks Near Lynden, Washington
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