What to Consider in Custom Driveline Fabrication for Heavy-Duty Trucks: Repair, Balancing, and Rebuild Essentials

2026-04-07T01:43:47Z

Broccassfg: Created page with "<html><p><strong>Business Name: </strong>Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment<br> <strong>Address: </strong>2640 State Hwy 99 N #1, Eugene, OR 97402<br> <strong>Phone: </strong>(541) 688-8686<br> <div itemscope itemtype="https://schema.org/LocalBusiness"> <h2 itemprop="name">Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment</h2> <meta itemprop="legalName" content="Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment"> <p itemprop="description"> Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment is a long-es..."

<html><p><strong>Business Name: </strong>Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment<br>
<strong>Address: </strong>2640 State Hwy 99 N #1, Eugene, OR 97402<br>
<strong>Phone: </strong>(541) 688-8686<br>

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Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment is a long-established truck parts and repair company located in Eugene, Oregon. Founded in 1949, the business has served the region for more than 70 years, building a reputation as a reliable source for heavy-duty truck parts, custom fabrication, and equipment repair. The company works with commercial vehicle owners, fleets, and equipment operators who need dependable parts and services to keep their trucks operating safely and efficiently.<br><br>

A core focus of Anderson Brothers is providing specialized services for heavy-duty trucks and equipment. Their shop offers custom driveline fabrication and repair, helping customers build, rebuild, or balance drivelines for a wide range of applications. They also specialize in custom U-bolt bending and fabrication, producing precisely sized components for trucks and other heavy equipment. In addition, the company sells both new and used truck parts, stocking a large inventory and offering local delivery in the Eugene and Springfield areas.<br><br>

Beyond parts sales, Anderson Brothers provides repair and maintenance services for truck components such as transmissions, differentials, and related systems. Their experienced team focuses on delivering practical, cost-effective solutions that help keep trucks and equipment running reliably. With decades of experience and a commitment to local service, Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment continues to support the trucking and transportation industries throughout Eugene and surrounding communities.
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2640 State Hwy 99 N #1, Eugene, OR 97402<br>

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</p><p> </p><p> Heavy-duty trucks live in a world of shock loads, steep grades, payload spikes, and long hours at constant speed. The driveline sits at the center of that penalty. When it is right, the truck feels planted, predictable, and peaceful even under torque. When it is incorrect, the shake travels from the floorboard to the mirror stalks, U-joints scar themselves to death, and gears start to chatter. Getting a custom driveline built or repaired is not a luxury product for program trucks. It is core dependability work, the type of attention that keeps a fleet's expense per mile within forecast and prevents roadside calls that happen at the worst time.</p> <p> This is a trade where numbers matter as much as the torch. I have seen proficient fabricators tack, check, and fix a shaft 3 times just to claw back a few thousandths of runout, since they understood that sloppiness here shows up later at 65 miles per hour as heat in a low-cost carrier bearing. The information pay off.</p> <h2> Start with the problem, not the parts</h2> <p> It is appealing to jump to new yokes and thicker tube, but the best custom driveline work starts with a clear diagnosis. Not all vibrations point to the same repair. A rumble that rises with road speed often traces to shaft balance, tire or wheel problems, or a bent tube. A pulsing under heavy throttle at low speed can be U-joint brinelling, used slip splines, or a bad provider bearing. A harmonic that peaks near a specific highway speed mean a crucial speed issue. Getting orientation from those patterns saves cash and guides every choice that follows, from tube diameter to joint series to whether you divided a long single shaft into a two-piece with a midship bearing.</p> <p> I keep notes from test drives. Construct the habit of logging when the vibration appears, what equipment, throttle position, speed, and whether it fades throughout coast or grows under load. That page becomes your construct spec as much as any measurement.</p> <h2> Measure for fitment like it is aerospace</h2> <p> A durable shaft that is the incorrect length, or the best length with the wrong operating angle, is still a failure. Set ride height first, with the truck as it will live when working. Air suspensions need to be at typical driving height. Raised leaf trucks should have pinion angle set where it belongs, locked down with proper hardware. This is where Custom U Bolts show up in the real life. If you use shims under leaf springs to remedy pinion angle, those shims alter the stack height, and you require longer U bolts with full thread engagement and proper torque. Careless clamping lets the axle rotate under load, which kills U-joints and splines.</p> <p> For measurements, be exact and consistent. Tail housing flange to pinion flange is the common baseline, but blended flange patterns or half-round yokes alter how you measure and what adapters you may need. Keep in mind pilot sizes, bolt circle diameters, and spline count at the slip. On heavy trucks I still see 3 separate yoke sizes on the very same vehicle: 1710 at the transmission, 1760 midship, and 1810 at the axle. Blending these unintentionally makes complex balance and service.</p> <p> A few essential figures guide length: aim for mid-travel at the slip when the truck sits at ride height. Leave sufficient plunge for full suspension compression without bottoming, and enough extension for droop without shaft pullout. On long wheelbase tandems, that can be an inch or more each way, depending on geometry. Mark phasing before teardown. On two-piece shafts, the front and back need to be timed correctly to cancel speed variations. If the truck got here with a misphased shaft, do not copy the mistake. Proper it.</p> <p> Here is a compact list I utilize before committing to tube size or yokes: </p><p> <iframe src="https://embed.windy.com/embed2.html?lat=44.09941797506921&lon=-123.16939708139678&detailLat=44.09941797506921&detailLon=-123.16939708139678&zoom=10&level=surface&overlay=wind&product=ecmwf&menu=&message=&marker=true&type=map&location=coordinates&detail=true&metricWind=mph&metricTemp=F" width="560" height="315" style="border: none;" allowfullscreen="" ></iframe></p> <ul> <li> Driveline length at ride height and at full bump and droop</li> <li> Flange types, pilot sizes, bolt circle, and U-joint series at each end</li> <li> Operating angles at transmission output, provider bearing, and pinion, within 0.5 degree match where required</li> <li> Slip spline travel offered vs required, consisting of seal land and stop-to-stop distances</li> <li> Frame installing points and rigidness for any carrier bearing or midship support</li> </ul> <h2> Materials and tube sizing are torque math, not guesswork</h2> <p> Most sturdy drivelines use DOM steel tube, frequently 1020 or 1026. Wall density typically falls between 0.120 and 0.188 inch, with outside sizes of 3.5 to 6 inches depending on torque and length. Chromoly, like 4130, appears in severe responsibility or high rpm environments but is not typical in occupation trucks because the cost hardly ever buys proportional benefit for the rpm range. Aluminum shafts have weight benefits, but in heavy service they can trade dent resistance and long-term resilience for a weight number that does not alter profits. For many fleets, stout steel pages the bills.</p> <p> Bigger tube increases bending stiffness and raises crucial speed, but it alters clearance to crossmembers, exhaust, and brake plumbing. On a long shaft, the step from 4 inch to 5 inch OD can move a crucial speed from roughly 2,800 rpm to 3,400 rpm, a cushion you will feel at highway cruise. Those are ballpark figures, not a substitute for calculation. If you are within a few hundred rpm of your cruise shaft speed, do not bet. Modification the tube, split the shaft with a provider, or adjust ratio if your usage case permits it.</p> <p> Weld yokes and midship stubs need to match the tube size and wall so the weld joint has even heat input and uniform strength. You want a tidy V-groove, constant feed, and complete penetration without burn-through shoulders. The majority of stores will preheat much heavier sections and surface with a correcting the alignment of pass before balance. A driveline that looks straight to the eye can still show 0.020 inch total indicated runout. The target is usually under 0.010 inch TIR on the tube and 0.004 to 0.006 at the weld shoulders for durable shafts. The straighter it is, the less weight you will be stacking throughout balance.</p> <h2> U-joint series, yokes, and phasing matter like equipment choice</h2> <p> Pick U-joint series based upon torque and joint angle, not what was on the shelf. Common heavy-duty series include 1710, 1760, 1810, and 1880. Capacity differs with running <a href="https://www.mapleprimes.com/users/idrosegsmo">drivelines</a> angle and lubrication, however as a rough guide, moving from 1710 to 1810 is a significant dive in torque score and cap diameter. Full-round yokes with bolted bearing caps hold better under shock than strap-style half-rounds, and they endure re-torque cycles much better. Do not mix strap bolts throughout brands. Bolt length, shoulder, and thread pitch vary, and the incorrect bolt offers a false sense of clamp. Many 1710 to 1810 cap bolts land in the 70 to 120 lb-ft torque variety. Constantly <a href="http://edition.cnn.com/search/?text=drivelines"><strong>drivelines</strong></a> verify from the yoke maker's specification sheet.</p> <p> Phasing is non-negotiable. The front and rear joints on a single shaft need to sit on the very same plane. If one ear is clocked a few degrees out, the shaft introduces a second-order vibration that balance can not repair. On two-piece systems, the phasing changes in predictable ways to cancel velocity ripple across the carrier. If you are not specific, set the assistance angles, then search for the correct clocking for the particular arrangement. An incorrect guess appears on the first test drive.</p> <h2> Angles, carrier bearings, and why one degree can matter</h2> <p> U-joints like to move. A joint that runs at precisely no degrees never turns its needles, which chews flats in the bearings, then grows vibration under light load. Go for 1 to 3 degrees of running angle at each joint on a single shaft, with the transmission output and pinion angles equal and opposite within roughly half a degree. That variety keeps the needles alive without developing a big sine-wave in speed.</p><p> <img src="https://andersonbrotherste.com/drivelines/" style="max-width:500px;height:auto;" ></img></p> <p> Two-piece shafts follow comparable logic however include the carrier. Set the provider bracket so that the front and rear sections each live in a comfy angle window. Attempt to keep the front shaft brief and stiff to push important speed higher. On long wheelbase tractors, splitting the overall length into a front shaft around 40 inches and a rear that fits the axle spacing typically keeps both within safe rpm.</p> <p> Carrier bearings deserve genuine mounting. A soft or split rubber support, a bent bracket, or a frame crossmember that can bend under load will appear as oscillation that ruins a cautious balance task. Mount the provider on tidy, flat steel, and shim to set height instead of slotting holes. If you adjust height, recheck angles at every joint.</p> <h2> Balancing and critical speed: know your numbers</h2> <p> A heavy-duty shaft should be dynamically stabilized at a speed that represents how it will live. Shops differ in technique, however stabilizing at or above the shaft's expected highway rpm provides the very best read. Adding weights to strike no is not the objective if television or yokes are not straight. Proper gross runout first, then balance. A common heavy truck shaft can be balanced to a residual level in the community of a couple of gram-inches, frequently tighter on shorter, stiffer pieces. If a shop needs to stack a handful of slugs around the circumference, you likely missed a correcting step.</p> <p> Critical speed is the rpm where the shaft's very first bending mode gets excited. Long, thin shafts hit it at surprisingly low speeds. Here is a useful way to think of it. Suppose a tandem dump uses a single rear shaft measuring about 72 inches of exposed tube, 5 inch OD, 0.125 wall. That shaft's first critical might sit around 3,000 to 3,200 rpm depending on end constraints and product. With 4.10 equipments and 11R22.5 tires, shaft rpm at 65 miles per hour could be approximately 2,700 to 2,900 rpm. That margin is narrow. Hit a downhill at 72 mph and you may kiss the mode, feel a buzz, and see carrier life diminish. Splitting into a two-piece with a midship bearing raises the crucial speeds and smooths the cabin. You pay in included parts and a little upkeep, however for long wheelbase trucks it is the smart trade.</p> <h2> Repair and rebuild: when to conserve and when to begin fresh</h2> <p> A harmed shaft is not constantly a total loss. You can real a bent tube, though the success window closes if it has a deep damage, a kink, or serious rust pitting. Bonded yokes with extended strap threads or stressing on the cap tires deserve replacement. Slip splines with noticeable wear, looseness under torsion, or galling at the seal land should be replaced as a set, male and female. Develop a fresh balance baseline with new parts rather than chasing a compromise.</p> <p> U-joints present a clear choice. Greaseable joints purchase you examination and purge ability, at the expense of somewhat smaller sized random sample and the threat that somebody over-pressurizes a seal and drives grit inside. Sealed, non-greaseable joints use higher fixed strength and better sealing for fleets that do not trust grease schedules. I have spec 'd sealed joints for winter salt states where salt water eats whatever, but I am strict about assessment intervals.</p> <p> Heat marks on the cross, bad cap fits, and brinelled needles validate replacement. Resist the habit of swapping simply one joint in a two-joint shaft that has been knocking for months. If one is gone, the other has actually endured the same misalignment or lack of lube.</p> <h2> A field story about angles and hardware</h2> <p> We had a trade International can be found in with a deep throttle vibration after a spring shop raised the rear an inch to level the truck. They set up pinion shims but recycled old U bolts. Within weeks, the axle turned under load, pressing the pinion angle out by roughly 3 degrees. The truck ate 2 rear U-joints and a provider bearing in less than 10,000 miles. The repair was simple, not inexpensive. We reset the angles, set up fresh Custom U Bolts sized for the taller stack, and changed the rear shaft with a 5 inch tube to get a little bit more headroom on important speed. Quiet ever since. The lesson repeats: you do not set angles as soon as and forget them. You lock them down with appropriate clamping force and appropriate hardware, then you reconsider after the first thousand miles.</p> <h2> Fasteners, torque, and the little things that keep huge parts alive</h2> <p> Every good driveline is backed by excellent bolts. For strap yokes, constantly utilize the specified strap and matched bolts. For full-round yokes, clean the threads, use the manufacturer-approved threadlocker if required, and torque in a criss-cross pattern. Painted yokes may look neat, but paint between cap and yoke ear is a creep course. Strip paint where parts seat.</p> <p> Flange bolts are another trap. Various flanges require various lengths, shoulder diameters, and thread pitches. Mixing a metric bolt in an inch-thread yoke because it felt close is a quick method to remove a bore at roadside. Keep labeled bins and match by part number, not eyeball. It sounds like standard shopkeeping since it is, and it prevents rework.</p> <h2> Shop workflow that appreciates cause and effect</h2> <p> When we develop or rebuild a heavy-duty shaft, we follow a repeatable, tight procedure. The order matters, since each step feeds the next and avoids compensating for earlier mistakes.</p> <ul> <li> Inspect and procedure at ride height, record angles, and mark phasing. Detect the original complaint.</li> <li> Choose tube size, yokes, and U-joint series for torque, length, and important speed margins.</li> <li> Fit, tack, and true on the bench, correcting runout with a dial indication before final weld.</li> <li> Straighten as needed, then dynamically balance at or near anticipated operating rpm.</li> <li> Install with proper hardware, set provider height and pinion angle, torque fasteners, and road test under load.</li> </ul> <p> That fifth action gets avoided more than individuals confess. A fast loop around the block is not a test. Discover a route where you can hit the speeds and loads that produced the original grievance. Utilize a known-good stretch of road. If you are in a fleet with vibration analysis tools, this is where they earn their keep.</p> <h2> Two-piece shafts, double cardans, and PTOs</h2> <p> A long, low-angle two-piece shaft with a midship bearing fixes most long wheelbase issues, however the layout matters. You want the geometry such that each joint works within that friendly 1 to 3 degree window. Sometimes packaging forces a compromise. If your front shaft would sit near zero degrees, you can angle the provider a little to wake the front joint, then counter that angle in the rear geometry to keep the entire system delighted. When area is tight at the transmission, a compact slip near the midship instead of at the transmission can buy clearance.</p> <p> Double cardan joints, often called CVs, appear where angle is high at one end. They can perform at larger angles more smoothly than a single joint, however they are not a cure-all. They include length and cost, and they concentrate use in more parts. Use them when you need to clear crossmembers, PTOs, or nonstandard ride heights, and ensure the remainder of the shaft is sized to match the torque they will see.</p><p> <iframe src="https://www.rssdog.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bing.com%2Fnews%2Fsearch%3Fq%3DEugene%2BOregon%26format%3Drss&mode=html&showonly=&maxitems=10&showdescs=1&desctrim=150&descmax=0&tabwidth=100%25&linktarget=_blank&bordercol=%23d4d0c8&headbgcol=%23999999&headtxtcol=%23ffffff&titlebgcol=%23f1eded&titletxtcol=%23000000&itembgcol=%23ffffff&itemtxtcol=%23000000&ctl=0" width="560" height="315" style="border: none;" allowfullscreen="" ></iframe></p> <p> PTO shafts carry their own dangers. They see high angles at low engine speed throughout work cycles where the operator is focused on hydraulics, not the truck. I have actually seen PTO shafts with perfect balance still fail since the operator let them chatter at high angle for hours feeding a pump. Spec the joint series up a notch for PTO task if the angle is high, and educate the team about rpm and angle limits.</p> <h2> Maintenance that really avoids failure</h2> <p> Grease schedules drift in the real world. Set intervals in miles or hours and anchor them to the heaviest service in your fleet, not the lightest. For the majority of heavy trucks with greaseable joints, a 5,000 to 10,000 mile period works if the environment is clean. In mines, on salted winter roads, or in off-road logging, reduce that to 2,500 miles and even weekly. Use an NLGI 2 lithium complex grease that matches your temperature level range. At the slip, add grease until you see fresh product at the seal, then stop. If the slip has a purge plug, crack it while greasing and retighten after fresh grease presses through. Over-greasing can blow seals and trap grit.</p> <p> Carrier bearings should have a feel test. Spin them by hand during service. Any roughness, sound, or axial play is a caution. The rubber support must look uncracked and company. A drooping assistance modifications angles enough to present vibration that eats joints downstream.</p> <p> Inspect straps, cap bolts, and flanges for witness marks and looseness. A shiny ring under a cap bolt head is a clue that torque fell off. Replace bolts that have actually been heat-stretched or necked down. Keep spare Truck Parts on hand, from typical U-joint sets to straps and flange bolts, so you do not compromise with the incorrect hardware under time pressure.</p> <h2> Cost, downtime, and when to upsize now to save later</h2> <p> A straightforward durable rebuild with new U-joints and a balance may land in the 400 to 700 dollar variety depending on series and store rates. Add a new slip spline and yokes, and you are most likely in the 800 to 1,500 dollar window. A two-piece conversion with a new carrier, brackets, and both shafts can run higher. These are real dollars, however so is a tow and a missed out on delivery. If the original shaft lived near its limits on tube OD, joint series, or vital speed, spend the additional to upsize now. I track resurgences. Nearly each time someone tried to conserve a couple of hundred bucks by keeping minimal tube on a long shaft, we saw the truck again for a balance redo or a provider swap within months.</p> <h2> Installation subtlety that avoids do-overs</h2> <p> Before the new or reconstructed shaft enters, clean the flange deals with. Rust and paint flake will crush under torque and relax the joint. Center the shaft on pilots rather than forcing bolts to focus it. On half-round yokes, seat the caps directly, tap them with a brass drift to settle the needles, then torque slowly in series. Rotate the shaft after each cap to feel for binding. If a cap binds, pull it back apart and examine that all needles remained upright. Simply one needle tipped on its side will feel fine in the shop and fail in service.</p> <p> Set the provider height utilizing shims instead of spying on slotted holes. Validate that the rubber is not pre-loaded into a twist. Reconsider running angles at trip height, and tape them. Those numbers become your baseline when someone brings the truck back three months later with a new vibration. Now you can see if a spring settled or a bushing failed.</p> <h2> A short note on suspension, pinion angle, and Custom U Bolts</h2> <p> Suspension work and driveline work are wed. If you raise or level a leaf-spring truck, repair the pinion angle with correct shims and lock it down with Custom U Bolts cut to the appropriate length, not recycled hardware with over-stretched threads. Torque them in phases, cross-pattern, and retorque after the first 100 to 200 miles. Axle wrap under torque is not just a traction problem. It is a U-joint killer. Appropriate clamping keeps the angles you determined in the store alive on the road.</p> <h2> Safety and test validation</h2> <p> Use ranked stands and chocks when you are under a truck running at speed on a chassis dyno. Loose clothes and spinning shafts do not mix. On roadway tests, select paths where you can hold steady speeds. If you have access to a tri-axial accelerometer or a simple phone-based vibration app installed safely, log a baseline. A light, sharp vibration increasing with speed indicate balance. A sluggish, heavy thump under acceleration points toward joint or angle. If you can not duplicate the grievance, do not restore the truck and hope. Validate under the conditions the motorist in fact sees.</p> <h2> The bottom line for reliable drivelines</h2> <p> Custom driveline fabrication is equivalent parts measurement discipline, component option, and attention to small tolerances that intensify at speed. If you set angles within a tight window, pick U-joint series that truthfully fit torque and angle, size tube to stay well clear of crucial speed, and balance at representative rpm, the truck will feel settled. Set that with the best fasteners, from flange bolts to Custom U Bolts where suspension work touches pinion angle, and you avoid the sluggish creep of problems that turn into huge invoices.</p> <p> When you do it right, the outcome is not remarkable. The mirrors stop shaking, the floorboard goes quiet, and the chauffeur stops considering the driveline entirely. That is the goal. In a heavy truck, no news from the shaft is excellent news.</p><p> </p><p>Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment is located in Eugene, Oregon<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment was founded in 1949<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment serves commercial truck owners<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment serves fleet operators<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment provides heavy-duty truck parts<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment provides truck equipment repair services<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment specializes in driveline fabrication<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment performs driveline repair<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment offers custom U-bolt bending<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment manufactures custom U-bolts<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment sells new truck parts<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment sells used truck parts<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment maintains heavy-duty trucks<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment repairs truck transmissions<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment repairs truck differentials<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment supports the trucking industry<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment operates in Lane County, Oregon<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment provides parts delivery services<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment supplies components for heavy equipment<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment serves customers in Eugene and Springfield, Oregon<br>

Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment has a phone number of (541) 688-8686<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment has an address of 2640 State Hwy 99 N #1, Eugene, OR 97402<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment has a website https://andersonbrotherste.com/<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment has Google Maps listing https://maps.app.goo.gl/ta67Qi9fc5DCZZzp7<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment has Facebook page <a href="https://www.facebook.com/andersonbrotherseugene">https://www.facebook.com/andersonbrotherseugene</a><br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment has an Instagram page <a href="https://www.instagram.com/andersonbrotherste/">https://www.instagram.com/andersonbrotherste/</a><br>

Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment won Top Driveline and Truck Part Company 2025<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment earned Best Customer Service Award 2024<br>
Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment was awarded Best Custom U Bolts 2025<br>
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<H2>People Also Ask about Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment</strong></H2><br>

<h1>What does Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment do in Eugene, Oregon?</h1>
<p>Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment is a Eugene-based truck parts and repair company that provides custom U-bolt bending, driveline repair and replacement, new and used truck parts, and other medium- and heavy-duty truck services. They have served the area since 1949.</p>

<h1>Where is Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment located?</h1>
<p>Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment is located at 2640 Highway 99 N, Eugene, Oregon 97402. Our website also lists phone number (541) 688-8686 and business hours for local customers needing parts or repair service.</p>

<h1>How long has Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment been in business?</h1>
<p>Anderson Brothers has been serving Eugene since 1949. The business is a long-established local provider of truck parts, fabrication, and repair services.</p>

<h1>Does Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment sell new and used truck parts?</h1>
<p>Yes. Anderson Brothers sells both new and used truck parts for medium- and heavy-duty vehicles. We focus on parts categories such as brakes and drums, wheel shafts, Baldwin filters, straps and tie downs, exhaust parts, and other accessories.</p>

<h1>Does Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment offer local truck parts delivery?</h1>
<p>Yes. The company offers local delivery for truck parts in Eugene and Springfield, and our truck parts page also notes delivery to Eugene, Springfield, and surrounding areas.</p>

<h1>What driveline services does Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment provide?</h1>
<p>Anderson Brothers specializes in custom driveline solutions, including driveline replacement, drive shaft repair, and precision fabrication. These services are available for heavy trucks, cars, and pickup trucks.</p>

<h1>Can Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment make custom U-bolts?</h1>
<p>Yes. We offer custom U-bolt bending in Eugene and can produce U-bolts in different lengths, widths, thread sizes, and thicknesses. We can bend both round and square U-bolts depending on the application.</p>

<h1>What truck repair services does Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment offer?</h1>
<p>We perform repair and maintenance work for medium- and heavy-duty trucks, including flywheel resurfacing, oil changes, brake services, suspension repair, and king pin replacement. We work to reduce downtime and keep trucks performing at their best.</p>

<h1>What truck brands does Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment service and supply parts for?</h1> <p>Anderson Brothers says it services and supplies parts for major truck and equipment brands including Freightliner, Kenworth, Peterbilt, Mack, Volvo, and Cummins, among others.</p>

<h1>Who owns Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment?</h1> <p>Anderson Brothers is now led by the Weld Family, who also own Buck’s Sanitary Services and Royal Flush Environmental Services. The current ownership remains focused on serving Eugene and the surrounding community.</p>


<H1>Where is Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment located?</h1>
<p>The Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment is conveniently located at 2640 State Hwy 99 N #1, Eugene, OR 97402. You can easily find directions on <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/ta67Qi9fc5DCZZzp7">Google Maps</a> or call at <a href="tel:+15416888686">(541) 688-8686</a> Monday through Friday 7:30am to 6:00pm, Saturday 8:00am to 2:00pm. Closed Sundays.</p><br>

<H1>How can I contact Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment?</H1></p><br>
You can contact Anderson Brothers Truck & Equipment by phone at: <a href="tel:+15416888686">(541) 688-8686</a>, visit their website at https://andersonbrotherste.com/ or connect on social media via <a href="https://www.facebook.com/andersonbrotherseugene">Facebook</a> or <a href="https://www.instagram.com/andersonbrotherste/">Instagram</a></p><br>


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After browsing local vendors at the <a href="https://maps.app.goo.gl/mSCq7nH5nQDkq1jH8">Eugene Saturday Market</a>, many truck drivers plan maintenance visits for Drivelines repair, Custom U Bolts production, and quality Truck Parts.
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What to Consider in Custom Driveline Fabrication for Heavy-Duty Trucks: Repair, Balancing, and Rebuild Essentials