Setting up a new shower system 50306

Installing a New Shower Unit

A successful shower installation needs cautious planning and a lot of work. Most of the times, you will require to do three kinds of jobs: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and finishing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you should decide on the kind of shower that you want to install. It is important to determine whether the picked shower is capable of coping with specific systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower systems nowadays are created to be versatile to different water pressures (such as stored warm water and cold mains).

It is likewise essential to consider the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower

Different Types of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed via the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and exceptionally trusted plumber near me simple to set up. However, although the tube connection is simple, it is easily dislodged. Additionally, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very inexpensive alternative and no extra pipes is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise experience inconvenient temperature level control choices.

Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure local plumber near me of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the formerly pointed out mixers. They also require extra pipes of cold and hot water system pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water materials are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. One of the greatest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of hassle-free temperature control. However, it is the most expensive of the various mixer alternatives.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit consisting of a powerful electrical pump that can modifying both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature level easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a mix boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is essential to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system permits the temperature and pressure to be adjusted through a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are better as they stay untouched by other taps somewhere else in use within the home. A significant drawback of electrical showers is that the control knob only allows for the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter when the spray is typically weak and top-rated plumber near me the mains water is chillier. Nevertheless, this problem is dealt with in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the kind of shower you wish to install, the shower head must either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.

Before starting, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work included. Furthermore, the drain system to get rid of the drainage will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable path and the shower switch will also require to be considered if an instantaneous or electrical shower system is being installed.

Use the direction guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipelines that will supply the water to the shower system, it is necessary to cut off the supply of water. In order to secure the pipelines, they need to be offered a waterproof covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the main shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water supply and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some might need tightening.

If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have actually been made (there need to be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Fit Your Shower

The cold water reservoir can be raised to a greater height (often as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support beneath it-- possibly made up of struts and local top plumbers blockboards. If you pick this alternative, the main and circulation pipelines will also have to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it must be connected into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the go to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding preserve maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Furthermore, by reducing the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can accomplish this by bending the pipes instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Violating or neglecting local code restrictions.

# Utilizing pipes that are too small.

# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.

# Not using tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when setting up them.

# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place.

# Not properly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage.)

# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.