Installing a new shower system 72652

Installing a New Shower Unit

An effective shower installation needs careful planning and a lot of work. For the most part, you will require to do three types of tasks: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and completing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you need to choose the kind of shower that you wish to set up. It is very important to establish whether the picked shower is capable of managing particular systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower units nowadays are developed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).

It is also essential to consider the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Types of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted through the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and extremely easy to set up. However, although the hose pipe connection is basic, it is easily dislodged. Furthermore, it is bothersome to adjust the temperature.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose and top plumbers in my area spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a really cheap choice and no extra pipes is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also suffer from inconvenient temperature control choices.

Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water supplies are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a variety of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. They also require additional plumbing of cold and hot water system pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from becoming too hot. Among the biggest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature control. Nevertheless, it is the most pricey of the various mixer alternatives.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single system consisting of a powerful electrical pump that can altering both the water pressure and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water cistern and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up straight by the shower or where the water is provided by a combination boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is essential to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system permits the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted by means of a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are better as they remain untouched by other taps somewhere else in usage within the household. A significant downside of electrical showers is that the control knob just enables the alternative of heats top-rated best plumbing company at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this issue is dealt with in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the type of shower you want to set up, the shower head should either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.

Before starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. Additionally, the drainage system to get rid of the drainage will require to be prepared. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will likewise need to be thought about if an instant or electrical shower system is being installed.

Use the guideline guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the supply of water. In order to safeguard the pipes, they must be given a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This might need a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water system and test the pipes for any leakages, as some may need tightening.

If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to turn off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have been made (there need to be guidance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower

The cold water tank can be raised to a greater height (often as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support underneath it-- potentially made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this choice, the main and circulation pipelines will also have to be raised to satisfy the brand-new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it needs to be linked into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding maintain optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. Furthermore, by minimising making use of elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the flow of the water system. You can attain this by flexing the pipelines instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Breaching or ignoring local code restrictions.

# Utilizing pipes that are too small.

# Connecting copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.

# Not using tape or pipeline substance at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your components when setting up them.

# Not installing an air gap filling for affordable top plumbing company fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.

# Not appropriately aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.)

# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outdoors hose pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can cause problems in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.