Installing a brand-new shower unit 64019
Setting Up a New Shower Unit
An effective shower setup needs cautious planning and a lot of work. In many cases, you will require to do three kinds of jobs: framing walls, installing the pipes, and completing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to choose the type of shower that you want to install. It is very important to determine whether the picked shower can handling certain systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower units nowadays are developed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).
It is likewise crucial to consider the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted through the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and extremely simple to install. However, although the pipe connection is easy, it is easily dislodged. Additionally, it is troublesome to change the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this type of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is an extremely low-cost alternative and no extra plumbing is included. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise experience inconvenient temperature control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall system and the cold and hot water materials are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the formerly pointed out mixers. They also require additional plumbing of cold and hot water supply pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from becoming too hot. One of the biggest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature level control. However, it is the most pricey of the different mixer options.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing a powerful electric pump that is capable of changing both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water warmed straight by the shower or where the water is provided by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is very important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature level and pressure to be changed via a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain untouched by other taps elsewhere in usage within the family. A major drawback of electric showers is that the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is colder. Nevertheless, this problem is tackled in some designs which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you want to set up, the shower head need to either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is recommended to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drain system to eliminate the drainage will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable path and the shower switch will also require to be thought about if an instantaneous or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the guideline guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is necessary to cut off the supply of water. In order to secure the pipelines, they should be given a waterproof covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have actually been made (there should be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water tank can be lifted to a greater height (sometimes as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support underneath it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you choose this alternative, the main and circulation pipelines will likewise need top best plumbing company to be raised to satisfy the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it needs to be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilize 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding keep maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Furthermore, by reducing the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can achieve this by flexing the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Violating or neglecting local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not using tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when installing them.
# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place.
# Not appropriately lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outdoors tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.